Alfama Walk

Alfama is the only part of central Lisbon that survived the 1755 earthquake intact — its medieval Moorish lanes are too steep and twisted for buildings to fall straight down. The neighbourhood predates Portuguese independence (1143): the Moors held it from 711 to 1147. Today it is the spiritual home of Fado, the melancholic Portuguese song style added to UNESCO's Intangible Heritage list in 2011.

Don't try to drive in or use Google Maps shortest-route — many "streets" are stairs. Start at the Sé Cathedral at the foot of the hill, climb 15 minutes to São Jorge Castle (panoramic view, €15), then descend via the Miradouro de Santa Luzia and Miradouro das Portas do Sol viewpoints. Tram 28 cuts through the neighbourhood — ride from Martim Moniz to Estrela for the full 7 km of the old town.

For an authentic Casa de Fado evening: book Mesa de Frades (former chapel, intimate, €45 with dinner), Clube de Fado (more formal, 21:00 sets) or Tasca do Chico in Bairro Alto (Mon + Wed free entry, just drinks). Performances start around 21:30. The genre is split into Fado de Lisboa (urban, sung by a soloist) and Fado de Coimbra (academic, only by men).